A spellbinding necklace from a prestigious collection made around 1925 by Cartier
Cartier, ca. 1925, openwork and jointed necklace in platinum and yellow gold paved with small old-cut diamonds, adorned with half-beads of turquoise, coral and onyx holding a pompom ending in a turquoise tassel bead, l. 36 cm, weight. 45.7 g.
Everything came together to make this piece of jewellery the highlight of this precious sale: its provenance – it belonged to Bethsabée de Rothschild – its date – around 1925 – , and the Cartier signature. And yet there are no diamonds, just a combination of coral, onyx, turquoise and all the incredible refinement of Art Deco jewellery. Louis Cartier (1875-1942) was head of the house at the time. One of those inquisitive people, who sought beauty in all circumstances, he went to the ballet, visited contemporary painting exhibitions and drew inspiration from his travels. This eclecticism led him to combine every possibility. Backed by designer Charles Jacqueau and researcher Jeanne Toussaint, he launched an accessories department and opened jewellery up to the boldness of Art Deco. It was a time of unusual colour combinations, geometric motifs and oriental references. This necklace combines all three, which explains its exemplary bid of €512,000.