With precious stones reflected in the clear water of rock crystal, Art Deco jewelry also dazzled through its choice of materials.
Boucheron, Art Deco bracelet, rows of fine pearls, rock crystal motifs embellished with diamonds, gold and platinum, signed and hallmarked by Master Baudin, l. approx. 17.2 cm/5.8 in, weight 38.4 g/1.35 oz.
This bracelet with several rows of fine pearls, joined by two rock crystal motifs adorned with diamonds, was the most sought-after piece in the sale—to no-one’s surprise, given the popularity of Art Deco jewelry. This item, made by Boucheron to boot, speakingly illustrated the inventiveness of the time, intensified by a choice of stones very different from solely precious gems. Along with onyx, turquoise and lapis lazuli, rock crystal was one of them. Two thousand years ago, the Greeks and Romans used it to carve seals and intaglios. The Renaissance took up the ancient tradition, and later Art Deco exalted it in turn with its jewelry creations. The transparency of the silicate chimed in perfectly with the movement's combinations of white. Here, the Place Vendôme jewelry firm associated it with fine pearls and diamonds: a trio that garnered €92,300. In the showcases, €68,900 went to a yellow gold ring sporting a Myanmar cushion-cut ruby (approx. 7 ct) surmounted with round- and navette-cut diamonds; €68,900 to a "toi et moi" ring in white gold with a round diamond (3.83 ct) and another navette (2.05 ct), and €58,500 to a necklace of fine pearls (diam. 4.8 to 9.2 mm/0.19 to 0.36 in).