Cartier, necklace composed of two rows of white... Lot 140

Cartier, necklace composed of two rows of white cultured pearls holding a center featuring a 750 gold panther head entirely paved with brilliant-cut diamonds and studded with onyx cabochons stylizing the coat, the onyx nose and eyes set with emerald drops, holding in its mouth two loops of falling cultured pearls. The clasp in 750 gold paved with brilliant-cut diamonds, signed, numbered 608978, length 44 cmWith the Orientalist movement, the panther and leopard motif made its appearance in the Decorative Arts before WW1. In 1914, Cartier made its first allusion to the panther with a wristwatch featuring diamond and onyx pavé reminiscent of the feline. First evoked by its mottled motif, the panther appeared in 2D in the years 1925-30. Over the years, it became a veritable symbol for the jewelry brand. It was Jeanne Toussaint, designer for the House of Cartier, who linked Cartier's destiny to that of the panther symbol when she was commissioned by the Duchess of Windsor in 1948 to create the first 3-D panther. The feline was dubbed an "atomic bomb" in the press, and became the darling of women who counted for their wealth, style and independent spirit, wishing to illustrate their uninhibited femininity, such as Daisy Fellowes, Barbara Hutton, and later artists as well.