Frédéric BOUCHERON (1830-1902) Necklace-chain... Lot 31

Frédéric BOUCHERON (1830-1902) Necklace-chain in 18K yellow gold with forçat and herringbone links alternated with small fine pearls of mussels, holding a round pendant in pink gold depicting a tambourine, the six discs stylized with double-faceted diamond wheels, the frame surrounded by small rose-cut diamonds on silver. Gouache background decorated with a scene of gypsy dancer. Signed "Fic. Boucheron/ Paris" on the back. Work of the Last Quarter of the 19th Century (Wear, transformation, traces of restoration on the chain). Gross weight : 11,05 gr Length : 46,5 cm - Diameter of the medallion : 2,4 cm Frédéric Boucheron, founder of the house of Boucheron in 1858, was the first of the great contemporary jewelers to open a boutique on the Place Vendôme in 1893. At first specialized in watches, which made him surround himself with the best craftsmen, his work quickly turned to jewelry characterized by absolute refinement, like our pendant. This medallion reflects all the influences that have carried Frédéric Boucheron. First of all, the diamond rounds. Their use comes from an encounter with an Antwerp cutter/engraver, probably of Dutch origin, Pierre-Charles Bordinckx. It seems that he was the first to have drilled the diamond around 1865, a cutting edge innovation when we know that the diamond can only be cut by the diamond. And he uses this technical prowess to make rounds faceted on the edges and pierced in the center. Frédéric Boucheron calls upon his talent and combines it with his creations. In 1889, the House, thanks to the creative spirit of Paul Legrand, created a pearl necklace that caused a sensation thanks to the alternation of pearls and diamond rondelles that illuminated the composition. These same rondelles make up the medallion that Armor Enchères presents to you, their appearance is rare enough to be highlighted. Then, the fashion for free women, the gypsies, appeared at the publication of Victor Hugo's book in 1831, thanks to the character of Esmeralda, and lasted throughout the 19th century. Here again, Frédéric Boucheron knew how to surround himself with the best enamellers, watercolorists, and especially people like Alfred Meyer. The flight of fabrics, the movement of drapery on a small surface, the details in the shadows, only an expert hand could realize the central figure of our medallion. This jewel is rare, and has absolutely remarkable characteristics on the history of diamonds.