Worn by Henry VIII's second wife, Anne Boleyn, and Alexandra of Denmark, Princess of Wales, the choker has earned its letters patent.
€18,200
Choker consisting of seven rows of fine pearls, central net motif in platinum dotted with pearls and diamonds, c. 1910, weight: 81 g (2.85 oz).
Neuilly-sur-Seine, May 5, 2018, Aguttes auction house
The choker necklace, known as colliers de chien (dog collar) in French, originally described necklaces made of pearls with the same diameter worn around the throat. While this qualifier gave it an erotic, even vulgar image, partly due to the tight black ribbon bow worn by prostitutes in the 19th century, it was called a "Je-ne-baise-plus" ("I-don't-kiss-any-more") when the ribbon sported a pendant or cameo; it was then worn by "religious-minded ladies and unavailable young duchesses," to quote Saint-Simon wrote. All these nicknames make us forget that the choker has been adorning women of power with magnificent stones since antiquity. In 1795, it was adopted in the form of a red cord by the aristocracy in memory of those guillotined. Preconceived ideas about the choker now stick in the throat…
Prices include the buyer's premium.
€32,864
"Belle Hélène" double row choker in 18k gold Tubogas with mobile bow decorated with diamonds and rubies on platinum claws, c. 1946, weight 130 g/4.6 oz, Van Cleef & Arpels, stamped Pery & Fils.
Paris, Drouot, May 19, 2020, Maison R&C, associate auctioneers
€3348.80
Gilded silver dog collar plaque with sycamore seed decoration in plique-à-jour enamel decorated with pearls, Germany c. 1900, 4.7 x 7.2 cm (1.8 x 2.9 in).
Paris, Drouot, March 4, 2020, Coutau-Bégarie auction house
€148.80
19th-century French school, Portrait of a Young Woman in a Choker, oval pastel, 41 x 34 cm (16.1 x 13.4 in).
Paris, Drouot, July 11, 2017, Le Floc’h auction house
€125
Midnight blue velvet choker mounted with a gilt metal clasp at the front engraved with flowers and leaves, 32.5 cm (12.8 in).
Paris, Drouot, May 16, 2018, De Baecque &Associés
€65,000
Raimundo de Madrazo y Garreta (1841–1920), detail of Portrait of Mrs. Laure Hayman wearing a choker, oil on canvas, 181 x 75 cm (71.2 x 29.5 in).
Paris, November 18, 2020, Artcurial auction house
€780
Valentín Carderera y Solano (1796–1880), Portrait of Queen Marie-Caroline of Bourbon of the Two Sicilies wearing a choker, watercolor, c. 1830, 15.7 x 11.8 cm (6.2 x 4.6 in).
Paris, March 12, 2020, Mallié-Arcelin auction house
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