S is for Silk, in the 17th and 18th Centuries

Result EUR8,500

Published on 05 May 2023, by Marielle Brie de Lagerac

During the Renaissance, Italy’s silk-making secrets became more widespread, and France was the first to benefit. Thanks to protectionist measures and royal support, its silk industry reached a peak in the 18th century.

C. 1760.Sack-back gown mantle with Watteau pleats falling from the top of the back,... S is for Silk, in the 17th and 18th Centuries

C. 1760.
Sack-back gown mantle with Watteau pleats falling from the top of the back, half-length pagoda sleeves in silk lampas, edged and fastened, partially lined with green taffeta.
Lyon, November 15, 2022.
De Baecque & Associés auction house. Mr. Maraval-Hutin.
Result: €8,500.

In the 16th century, the French Valois Dynasty understood the importance of the kingdom's silk factories and indulged in every sartorial extravagance to make the most of their production. However, the nascent industry could not yet satisfy this high demand. After the Wars of Religion—which were devastating for the arts—the agronomist Olivier de Serres, at Henri IV’s behest, continued to promote silk wherever it could be cultivated, starting with the Tuileries gardens. However, silk was even more popular in Provence and in the Cévennes. Sericulture was highly developed in Lyon and Tours, and Cardinal Richelieu was delighted that the quality of French silk was now on a par with that of Italy. This success is due to Claude Dangon who, in 1620, invented the draw-loom, which made it possible to weave the finest fabrics right up to the early 19th century. This system consists of thin…

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