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Jewelry Under the Spotlight

Published on , by Sophie Reyssat

A sale with a charm offensive with pure diamonds and imaginative creations by Suzanne Belperron.

Suzanne Belperron (1900-1983), dome ring, 19.15 ct cabochon sapphire, ruby paving,... Jewelry Under the Spotlight

Suzanne Belperron (1900-1983), dome ring, 19.15 ct cabochon sapphire, ruby paving, yellow gold, 14.7 g (0.52 oz)
Result: €91,000

Nearly 450 phone lines were needed for this sale of some 150 pieces of jewelry. 40% of purchasers were first-time buyers, and the overall zeal led to 85% of the lots being netted for €1.4 M.

Two rings tied first at €110,500. One featured a 10.23 ct oval brilliant-cut diamond—color I, purity SI1, without fluorescence—flanked by two trapeze-cut diamonds. The other boasted a 5.06 ct low-fluorescence emerald-cut diamond with an E color and VS1 purity set off between baguette diamonds. A step cut made one stone, classified as category IIA, shimmer on paper. Type II diamonds contain no nitrogen, which implies high purity and a flawless atomic structure. They fall into two groups. Group A generally designates colorless stones, but they also can be brown or pink. This delicate, very clear and slightly orange 9.15 ct stone with VS2 purity fetched €93,600.

Appreciated for its colorful style, a "dome" ring by Suzanne Belperron doubled its estimate at €91,000. The archives show that it was commissioned in 1973. Sporting a 19.15 ct cabochon sapphire diamond mounted on yellow gold and encircled by ruby paving, the piece combines the volumes, shapes and chromatic contrasts that account for Belperron’s continued success today. Designed in around 1940, her "flower" clip is another example (€66,395). Highlighted with two engraved emerald leaves, its corolla of citrines and fancy vivid intense yellow diamonds are arrayed around a cabochon ruby heart. The clip bears the hallmark of Groëne & Darde (h. 5.8 cm/2.28 in, weight 26.9 g/0.95 oz).

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