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Coral’s Art Deco Breakthrough

On 13 October 2021, by Anne Doridou-Heim

Art Deco jewelers pulled out all the stops to create dazzling settings to showcase coral.

Coral’s Art Deco Breakthrough

€512,000
Cartier, c. 1925, jointed platinum and yellow gold diamond necklace trimmed with turquoise, tubular coral and onyx, l. 36 cm/14.17 in.
Paris, Drouot, June 15, 2020, Baron Ribeyre & Associés OVV, Ms. Cukierman.

Art Deco jewelry designers were passionate about gems and organic materials that had been overlooked until then, using mother-of-pearl, bone, horn, ivory, jade, turquoise and coral to make stunning pieces. Their earliest creations featured the chessboard duo of diamonds and onyx before they turned to colors and bolder combinations. The greatest designers—Cartier, Lacloche, Van Cleef & Arpels and Templier—successfully introduced coral in colors ranging from powdery pink to deep red. The material had been known and used in many civilizations since antiquity, but never in luxury jewelry until the 1920s.

€57,375 Raymond Templier, c. 1928, platinum and white gold brooch with a geometric design of coral disks ornamented with diamonds, gross w

€57,375
Raymond Templier, c. 1928, platinum and white gold brooch with a geometric design of coral disks ornamented with diamonds, gross weight 22.8 gr/22.8 oz.
Neuilly, June 22, 2017, Aguttes OVV.

€142,912 Attributed to Cartier, c. 1922, pair of gold and platinum pendant earrings shaped like caterpillars and decorated with jade, fine

€142,912
Attributed to Cartier, c. 1922, pair of gold and platinum pendant earrings shaped like caterpillars and decorated with jade, fine pearls, onyx, coral and diamonds, gross weight 11.80 gr/0.42 oz.
Paris, Drouot, November 29, 2018, Maigret (Thierry de) OVV, Vendôme Expertise.

€102,000 Cartier, c. 1920, platinum bracelet with three rows of coral beads adorned with "lyre" motifs set with diamonds and onyx, gross w

€102,000
Cartier, c. 1920, platinum bracelet with three rows of coral beads adorned with "lyre" motifs set with diamonds and onyx, gross weight 41.6 gr/1.46 oz.
Neuilly, October 25, 2017. Aguttes OVV.




 

 














Coral was ideal for the geometric shapes that were fashionable at the time.

 
€146,500 JAR, “Curtain”, pair of platinum and yellow gold earrings with coral beads surmounted by circles set with diamonds, l. 7.5 cm/2.9

€146,500
JAR, “Curtain”, pair of platinum and yellow gold earrings with coral beads surmounted by circles set with diamonds, l. 7.5 cm/2.95 in.
Paris, Drouot, April 16, 2021, Gros & Delettrez OVV.

€120,960 Lacloche, gold cuff bracelet with two wide flat tabs connected by a ring, decorated with two removable elements that can be set w

€120,960
Lacloche, gold cuff bracelet with two wide flat tabs connected by a ring, decorated with two removable elements that can be set with 10 interchangeable cabochons.
Paris, Drouot, November 30, 2018, Crait+Müller OVV, Mr. Flandrin.

€20,320 Lacloche, 1920s, platinum brooch decorated with coral flowers set with diamonds and onyx, h. 10 cm/3.94 in.Paris, Drouot, December

€20,320
Lacloche, 1920s, platinum brooch decorated with coral flowers set with diamonds and onyx, h. 10 cm/3.94 in.
Paris, Drouot, December 16, 2020, Beaussant Lefèvre OVV, Émeric & Stephen Portier.


 

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