Chanel’s Whimsical Side

The most coveted items in this auction of a stylish woman’s wardrobe and fashion accessories were costume jewelry from Chanel. A long, gold-plated chain from the 1993 collection with various charms, including two seals, one set with red, the other with green glass paste intaglio, fetched €1,371, while a gold "cross" pendant (h. 5.8 cm/2.28 in, weight 22.8 g/0.80 oz) and a dog collar with multiple strands of white glass-paste beads tied at €1,143.

The most hotly contested item was this imposing necklace from the 1995 spring-summer collection in the form of a cascading mesh breastplate featuring the gold-plated Chanel logo alternating with large "tutti frutti" crystal cabochons and rhinestones. Baroque pearls were the finishing touch, driving the price up to €11,542. The market for fashion jewelry that has existed for several years is clearly a boon for the house. In the 1920s, Gabrielle Chanel (1883–1971) was among the first—with Paul Poiret and Madeleine Vionnet—to start making these accessories to accent a collection’s style. They dropped out of sight before making a big comeback in the 1990s and are now a common sight at auctions.