Dazzling Cartier

On 24 April 2020, by Anne Doridou-Heim
Cartier Paris, c. 1919-1920, articulated platinum necklace with Double Dutch Rose diamond pendant in closed setting, surrounded with crowned roses, on a chain of geometrical design formed of rectangular links containing antique cut diamonds.
Result: €379,200

In 1919, the Maison Cartier, probably in response to a private commission, designed this articulated necklace with a magnificent “crowned rose” pendant. The rose cut appeared in the 16th century – although it seems it was already practised in India – and gives relief to a rough diamond, making maximum use of its potential. The cut was abandoned when the “round brilliant” – the most popular cut nowadays, as it provides more sparkle – was invented by a Belgian diamond merchant in 1919, precisely. This suggests that the necklace was created around the pre-existing motif of this earlier rose, certainly dating from the 19th century.

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