A RETRO SAPPHIRE AND GOLD BRACELET, BY CAZZANIGA,... Lot 34

A RETRO SAPPHIRE AND GOLD BRACELET, BY CAZZANIGA, ROMA, CIRCA 1940 The large bombé gold links with reeded detailing throughout, accented in the centre by circular-cut sapphires within star motifs, mounted in 18K gold, Italian assay mark for 'Giorgio Angelo Cazzaniga in Rome between 1934-1944', with original maker's case, length 20.3cm The firm of Cazzaniga was founded by Angelo Giorgio Cazzaniga (d. 1976) in 1920. Born in Rome, he grew up in the villa belonging to a cousin of Tsar Nicholas II as his father was manager of the prince’s estate. His childhood and adolescence were therefore spent surrounded by the vast collection of artworks belonging to the young Russian patron, Prince Abamelek Lazarev. This upbringing proceeded to have a profound impact on both his initial choice of career as an apprentice goldsmith in Milan as well as the creation of his jewellery pieces later in life. He opened his first jewellery store near the Trevi fountain, in the heart of Rome in 1929. Cazzaniga’s pieces encapsulated the art of classical and Baroque Rome and were inspired by the sculpture of Bernini and Francesco Borromini, amongst others. The influence of his childhood was never far away. The elaborate ornamental and almost architectural style of Cazzaniga’s jewellery throughout his career reveals a unifying motif which shows a continuous underlying reference to the artistic foundations of his youth. Giorgio’s two sons Paolo and Roberto followed him into the jewellery business, with both opening their respective stores under the same name. Paolo started his own company in Rome in 1973 and Roberto opened a store in 1979 on New York’s Madison Avenue, but this subsequently closed in 1981. Paolo continued to run the firm he started in Rome under the Cazzaniga name. He continued the legacy left by his father creating jewellery in a neo-Baroque style. Paolo worked most often in gold with precious gemstones. His primary inspiration derived from studying the artwork of the Byzantine era, the Florentine Renaissance and just like his father, Baroque Rome. During the 1970’s, the house of Cazzaniga experienced a revival and heightened success on the international scene under the directorship of Paolo. Paolo inherited an innate passion for jewellery that was inherited from his father, and he has made it his mission to dedicate his time to solidifying what has become known as a distinct Cazzaniga style. Today the Gioielleria Cazzaniga is led by Paolo and his son Giorgio, the latter of whom represents the third generation in a line of talented jewellers and goldsmiths. Together, the duo caters for a clientele that is largely international and collaborate with the best representatives of Italian goldsmiths to continue the Cazzaniga legacy. Below is an original sketch by Cazzaniga’s founder Angelo Giorgio Cazzaniga from the jeweller’s archives. The two sketches shown date to the early 1950s. The drawing on the right displays the workings of a model design almost identical to the bracelet in this sale, and exhibit the fine draughtsmanship of the jeweller, even in the initial stages of his designs. Written below the drawing on the right are the original dimensions and price point decided by Cazzaniga. Translated from the Italian, the text says, ‘7 pieces at 20cm’, with the price set at £4000 Italian Lire, the equivalent to around €30,000 today.