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The Gilles Labrosse Collection: Gems of Fashion

Published on , by Philippe Dufour
Auction on 23 September 2020 - 00:00 (CEST) - espace Villars, rue du Pont-Chinard - 03000 Moulins

The sale of the unique collection of costumes assembled by this enthusiast was eagerly awaited, as several pieces were of undeniable museum quality.

Neo-classical dress, First Empire, c. 1810, white cotton and muslin.Result: €21,500... The Gilles Labrosse Collection: Gems of Fashion

Neo-classical dress, First Empire, c. 1810, white cotton and muslin.
Result: €21,500  

To everyone's surprise, the star of this timeless fashion show turned out to be a neo-classical dress from the First Empire, more precisely from around 1810. In a mix of white cotton and muslin, the gown with its customary high waist features a round neckline, a sash to fasten it and long sleeves with small puffs. In excellent condition, it garnered €21,500 after a high estimate of only €1,800. It stole the show from a French-style ceremonial court dress with imposing paniers in silk brocade with gold and silver thread, dating from 1770/1780, with an estimate of €12,000/15,000. Indispensable for any evening at Versailles, it finally fetched €18,500. One of its counterparts from between 1780 and 1790 – not as heavy, as it was made in a "Mexican" taffeta embroidered with bouquets and roses - was sold for €10,100. A slightly earlier Louis XV mantua à la polonaise in "chiné à la branche" taffeta (similar to ikat) pinned in the English style over the breast went for €10,200. In exchange for €9,800, we moved into the 20th century with a Paul Poiret haute couture sequin and embroidered pearl evening gown, ca. 1921-1922.  Featuring stylised rose motifs by Raoul Dufy for Atelier Martine, this was entirely embroidered with iridescent black sequins and glass beads. Meanwhile, a contemporary dress attributed to Madeleine Vionnet sported Greek frieze and horse motifs on a black silk crepe background (€9,000). Several specialist French and foreign museums seized the opportunity to add to their collections, like the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, which for €2,300 pre-empted a gold lamé evening gown from around 1935, possibly by Vionnet, and the Musée d'Art et d'Histoire d'Orange, which acquired a sack-back gown (€5,750) in fine woodblock-printed Indian cotton. This had retained its original finish... since 1785.

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Wednesday 23 September 2020 - 00:00 (CEST)
espace Villars, rue du Pont-Chinard - 03000 Moulins
Enchères Sadde
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