The 19th Century: A Hundred Years of Jewelry

On 03 February 2021, by Julia Vermeulen

Luxury, exoticism and references to the past marked 19th-century jewelry.

€62,500
Alexis Falize, yellow gold earrings, cloisonné enamel on both sides, decorated with birds on a turquoise ground and white flowers on a blue ground.
Fontainebleau, Decembre 17, 2017. Osenat auction house.

The supply and demand of luxury goods rose considerably during the 19th century as the bourgeoisie and aristocracy grew increasingly wealthy. The following selection presents the tastes that emerged as this trend gathered momentum. References to antiquity were fashionable between the First and Second Empire, while the Middle Ages and the Renaissance became sources of inspiration around 1825. Then came a vogue for exoticism, especially for Mediterranean civilizations. Algerian knots and lapis lazuli were all the rage. Japonisme, which became stylish in the late 19th century, also had an impact on jewelry, as Alexis and Lucien Falize’s cloisonné enamel pieces show.

Prices shown include fees.

Diamonds flooded the European market after they were discovered in South Africa in 1867.
 
€409Alexis Falize, agate cameo carved with a figure in profile.Paris, Favart auction room, June 19, 2020. Ader auction house.

€409
Alexis Falize, agate cameo carved with a figure in profile.
Paris, Favart auction room, June 19, 2020. Ader auction house.

€93,750René Lalique, three-loop knot brooch in 18ct gold and silver, with pavé set old-cut diamonds and a removable pin, c. 1885.Paris, Dr

€93,750
René Lalique, three-loop knot brooch in 18k gold and silver, with pavé set old-cut diamonds and a removable pin, c. 1885.
Paris, Drouot, November 2015. L’Huillier & Associés Auction House.

€17,213Lucien Falize, pendant in 18ct yellow gold and multicolored enamel, with fine pearls and rose-cut diamonds, depicting two curled Cs

€17,213
Lucien Falize, pendant in 18k yellow gold and multicolored enamel, with fine pearls and rose-cut diamonds, depicting two curled Cs adorned with chimeras in the medieval style, c. 1889.
Neuilly-sur-Seine, December 14, 2016. Aguttes Auction House.


€4,160Diamond ring, late 19th century, sapphires surrounded by two rows of diamonds, 18k gold.Neuilly-sur-Seine, June 11, 2020. Aguttes au

€4,160
Diamond ring, late 19th century, sapphires surrounded by two rows of diamonds, 18k gold.
Neuilly-sur-Seine, June 11, 2020. Aguttes auction house.

€2,413Articulated necklace in 18k yellow gold, 19th century, with rectangular locket.Paris, Drouot, June 16, 2020. Beaussant Lefèvre aucti

€2,413
Articulated necklace in 18k yellow gold, 19th century, with a rectangular locket.
Paris, Drouot, June 16, 2020. Beaussant Lefèvre auction house.

€12,760Eugène Fontenay, articulated choker necklace in 18k gold with a satin finish, decorated with floret drops alternating with motifs o

€12,760
Eugène Fontenay, articulated choker necklace in 18k gold with a satin finish, decorated with floret drops alternating with motifs of Etruscan inspiration.
Paris, Drouot, November 20, 2018. Thierry de Maigret auction house.



 
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