When Women Take Over Jewelry

Le 27 avril 2021, par Sixtine Bénatier

In the early 20th century, women entered the world of jewelry, establishing it firmly in modernity.

€66,395
Suzanne Belperron, flower clip, 18 k yellow gold, citrine, yellow diamonds, cabochon rubies, engraved emeralds, c. 1940, 5.8 cm/2.3 in, 26.9 g/0.94 oz.
Neuilly, 11 March 2021, Aguttes auction house

Jewelry, designed primarily for women, was long created by men. Then at the end of the 19th century, women moved into the field of art and fashion. One of the first to make her mark in the masculine world of jewelry was Suzanne Belperron (1900-1983). In 1920, she inspired a contemporary spirit in the Boivin company with a bold taste for volutes that decidedly went against the Art Deco trend of the time. Other designers and jewelers have given jewelry a modern touch in turn. Lydia Courteille (b. 1951) with her vanitas pieces, Tone Vigeland (b. 1938), a goldsmith in the 1960s Norwegian avant-garde scene famous for her metalwork, and Victoire de Castellane (b. 1962), with her timeless floral style, all revived their own desire to wear jewelry by appropriating its design.
 

€5,376Victoire de Castellane (b. 1962) for Dior, Diorette ring, Milly-la-Forêt collection, in white gold with polychrome enamel flowers, l

€5,376
Victoire de Castellane (b. 1962) for Dior, Diorette ring, Milly-la-Forêt collection, in white gold with polychrome enamel flowers, ladybugs and butterflies, set with diamonds, rubies and sapphires, 2009, 34.3 g/1.2 oz.
Paris, Drouot, December 8, 2014, Gros & Delettrez auction house

€500Elsa Peretti (b. 1940) for Tiffany Co, 18 k yellow gold starfish pendant, 5.5 cm diameter/2.2 in., 11.1 g/0.39 oz.Saint Cloud, March 2

€500
Elsa Peretti (b. 1940) for Tiffany Co, 18 k yellow gold starfish pendant, 5.5 cm diameter/2.2 in, 11.1 g/0.39 oz.
Saint Cloud, March 24, 2019, Le Floc'h auction house

€12,544Cartier, white gold ring based on the panther motif created under Jeanne Toussaint (1887-1976), featuring a panther's head, diamond

€12,544
Cartier, white gold ring based on the panther motif created under Jeanne Toussaint (1887-1976), featuring a panther's head, diamonds, emeralds and black enameled nose, 23.9 g/0.84 oz.
Paris, Drouot, June 3, 2020, Gros & Delettrez auction house


 

For French designer Marie-Hélène de Taillac, "a woman creates what she wants to wear; a man creates to adorn a woman."

 
€25,502Cartier, after L'Oiseau en cage by Jeanne Toussaint (1942), L'Oiseau Libéré brooch, 1944, 18 k yellow gold, lapis lazuli, ribbed co

€25,502
Cartier, after L'Oiseau en cage by Jeanne Toussaint (1942), L'Oiseau Libéré brooch, 1944, 18 k yellow gold, lapis lazuli, ribbed coral, diamond and sapphire, 10.1 g/0.35 oz.
Paris, Drouot, June 2, 2016, Pierre Bergé & Associés auction house

€1,560Line Vautrin (1913-1977), Nœuds necklace in silver-plated bronze and blue enamel with the monogram LV, c. 1940Paris, November 24, 20

€1,560
Line Vautrin (1913-1977), Nœuds necklace in silver-plated bronze and blue enamel with the monogram LV, c. 1940.
Paris, November 24, 2020, Piasa auction house

€12,800Suzanne Belperron (1900-1983), chalcedony ring engraved with gadroons and swirl decoration, set with a cultured pearl, c. 1937, 8.7

€12,800
Suzanne Belperron (1900-1983), chalcedony ring engraved with gadroons and swirl decoration, set with a cultured pearl, c. 1937, 8.7 g/0.3 oz.
Paris, Drouot, June 4, 2020, Tessier & Sarrou et Associés auction house

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